Peugeot 205 Manual
Underbonnet check for fluid leaks and hose condition (Every 12000 miles
(18000 km) or 12 months)Routine maintenance and servicing / Underbonnet check for fluid leaks and hose condition (Every 12000 miles
(18000 km) or 12 months)
Warning: Renewal of any air conditioning hoses (where fitted) must be left to a dealer service department or air conditioning specialist who has the equipment to depressurise the system safely. Never remove air conditioning components or hoses until the system has been depressurised.
1 High temperatures in the engine compartment can cause the deterioration of the rubber and plastic hoses used for engine, accessory and emission systems operation.
Periodic inspection should be made for cracks, loose clamps, material hardening and leaks.
2 Carefully check the large top and bottom radiator hoses, along with the other smallerdiameter cooling system hoses and metal pipes; do not forget the heater hoses/pipes which run from the engine to the bulkhead.
Inspect each hose along its entire length, replacing any that are cracked, swollen or shows signs of deterioration. Cracks may become more apparent if the hose is squeezed (see Haynes Hint).
3 Make sure that all hose connections are tight. If the spring clamps that are used to secure some of the hoses appear to be slackening, they should be renewed to prevent the possibility of leaks.
4 Some other hoses are secured to their fittings with screw type clips. Where screw type clips are used, check to be sure they haven’t slackened, allowing the hose to leak.
If clamps or screw type clips aren’t used, make sure the hose has not expanded and/or hardened where it slips over the fitting, allowing it to leak.
5 Check all fluid reservoirs, filler caps, drain plugs and fittings etc, looking for any signs of leakage of oil, transmission and/or brake hydraulic fluid, coolant and power steering fluid. If the vehicle is regularly parked in the same place, close inspection of the ground underneath will soon show any leaks; ignore the puddle of water which will be left if the air conditioning system is in use. As soon as a leak is detected, its source must be traced and rectified. Where oil has been leaking for some time, it is usually necessary to use a steam cleaner, pressure washer or similar, to clean away the accumulated dirt, so that the exact source of the leak can be identified.
6 It’s quite common for vacuum hoses, especially those in the emissions system, to be numbered or colour-coded, or to be identified by coloured stripes moulded into them. Various systems require hoses with different wall thicknesses, collapse resistance and temperature resistance. When renewing hoses, be sure the new ones are made of the same material.
7 Often the only effective way to check a hose is to remove it completely from the vehicle. If more than one hose is removed, be sure to label the hoses and fittings to ensure correct installation.
8 When checking vacuum hoses, be sure to include any plastic T-fittings in the check.
Inspect the fittings for cracks, and check the hose where it fits over the fitting for distortion, which could cause leakage.
9 A small piece of vacuum hose can be used as a stethoscope to detect vacuum leaks.
Hold one end of the hose to your ear, and probe around vacuum hoses and fittings, listening for the “hissing” sound characteristic of a vacuum leak.
Warning: When probing with the vacuum hose stethoscope, be very careful not to come into contact with moving engine components such as the auxiliary drivebelt, radiator electric cooling fan, etc.
Warning: Before carrying out the following operation, refer to the precautions given in “Safety first!” at the beginning of this manual, and follow them implicitly. Petrol is a highly dangerous and volatile liquid, and the precautions necessary when handling it cannot be overstressed.
10 Check all fuel hoses for deterioration and chafing. Check especially for cracks in areas where the hose bends, and also just before fittings, such as where a hose attaches to the carburettor or fuel rail.
11 High-quality fuel line, usually identified by the word “Fluoroelastomer” printed on the hose, should be used for fuel line renewal.
Never, under any circumstances, use unreinforced vacuum line, clear plastic tubing or water hose for fuel lines.
12 Spring-type clamps are commonly used on fuel lines. These clamps often lose their tension over a period of time, and can be “sprung” during removal. Replace all springtype clamps with screw clips whenever a hose is replaced.
13 Sections of metal piping are often used for fuel line between the fuel filter and the engine. Check carefully to be sure the piping has not been bent or crimped, and that cracks have not started in the line.
14 If a section of metal fuel line must be renewed, only seamless steel piping should be used, since copper and aluminium piping don’t have the strength necessary to withstand normal engine vibration.
15 Check the metal brake lines where they enter the master cylinder and ABS hydraulic unit for cracks in the lines or loose fittings.
Any sign of brake fluid leakage calls for an immediate and thorough inspection of the brake system.